If you believe some of the U.S. media outlets, Iran is a mad theocracy hellbent on spreading its vision of a pure Islamic (Shia) society throughout the Middle East. The truth is far more complex. Yes, the rhetoric of their leadership is over the top and they actively promote those very telegenic ‘Death to America - Down With The Great Satan’ demonstrations. This, however, is very different than the reality on the ground. The overwhelming majority of people I encountered were friendly and eager to engage with Americans and the rest of the world. The revolution of 1979 has failed to deliver them a better way of life and as most Iranians were born after the Shah was ousted from power, the rallying cries of the current regime ring hollow. In a globalized age they know they are lagging behind.

The country is ill served by its current leadership. Corruption is rampant and the economy is weak. Many of the people I encounter hold multiple jobs, most of which they are overqualified for, and yet, they still struggle to buy food and pay rent. They are quite open in expressing their contempt for their leaders, but seem resigned to their lot in life. Older people vent a deep bitterness. Students yearn for better days, but are unsure how this will come about. In Iran, the nail that sticks up gets smacked down, so dissent is virtually nonexistent.

So, what exactly are the ambitions of the mullahs? It is very hard to know. Iran is not a transparent society, the media is under the thumb of the government and Tehran’s ideological and financial support of other regional players further muddies the debate. All of these factors lead to easy conclusions about intent, but again, it is more complex.

Although there is tension in the air, nobody knows how change will come to Iran. Military intervention is not the answer, as the average Iranian wants nothing more than to improve their life, love their children, live in peace and join the global community. We cannot afford to make them our enemies.

Change will only come from within. Should another revolution happen, it will not be televised, though you might see it on You-Tube.

What I can say with certainty is that Iran has a rich culture, friendly people, delicious food, stunning landscapes and beautiful Islamic architecture. I will share this with you in my next dispatch. In the meantime, please visit my new and improved website. I have started this blog that will focus on the rest of the world. In the months to come there will be new material that I hope will bring alive the issues that affect us all, delivered in short and easy to digest essays, photos and films. Feedback and debate on the blog is welcomed and encouraged.

Best regards,

George
planetbillard.com

…and for those intrepid travelers contact the best guide/fixer in Iran, Rahman Mehraby
www.destinationiran.com